Anticurl device for collars



June 17, 1952 B. I IEBowlTz 2,601,035

ANTICURL DEVICE FOR COLLARS Filed oct. 14, 195o '2 SHEETS-SHEET 1 IN VEN TOR.

June 17`, 1952 B, LlEBOWn-Z 2,601,035

ANTICURL DEVICE FOR COLLARS 43 F/zz IN V EN TOR.

Patented June 17, 1952 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 13 Claims.

'I'his invention relates to collars for mens and boys shirts and has forits main objective the prevention or minimizing of the tendency of thepoints of such collars to cur1, i. e. to bend away from the wearer.

This tendency of the collar points to curl represents one of the mostlongstanding problems in the industry. While it is true that on someindividuals collars do not show much tendency to curl, nevertheless onmost individuals they do. Known means for overcoming the tendency, suchas the use of stays or buttons as in the buttondown collar are oflimited applicability and have certain disadvantages besides. For morethan a decade much or most of the collars manufactured in the UnitedStates have been of the so-called fused type and on such collars,although semistiff, no adequate means has been hitherto found to preventcurling.

The objective of this invention, viz., to eliminate or minimize thiscurling tendency, is achieved in a very simple way by introducing acountercurling or anticurling tendency by means of a structure whichwill hereinafter be referred to as a bi-elastic structure. In itssimplest form, this bi-elastic structure comprises a strip of flexiblebut compression-resistant fabric and a permanently stretched elasticmember, e. g. a rubber strip, these two members being fastened togetherat a common interface by stitching or cementing. A simple bi-elasticelement comprising, e. g. a single layer of stiffened fabric and a thinlayer of stretched rubber sewn thereto face to face will curl up into aspiral cross-section when left to itself. When such bi-elastic elementsare sewn into a collar at suitable locations, with the stretched elasticelement towards the wearer, an inward curling tendency is produced. Withproper selection of the materials and of the initial stress of theelastic element, the said inward curling tendency can readily be madestrong enough to keep the front regions of the collar against the bodyof the wearer without at the same time causing such a severe inwardcurling tendency as to produce undesirable effects. To achieve enoughanticurling tendency without having too much requires a proper balanceof the various materials and forces involved, but this balance isobtainable without difficulty after some experimental work..V

Attempts which have hitherto been made to achieve this objective may beillustrated by reference to Patents No. 2,186,356 and No. 2,183,242.These attempts were based on the use of a differential shrinkage andfailed because after a very few washings the collar settled down to thedimensions demanded by the more shrinkable element and thereafter showedno anti-curling tendency. In the present invention, however, this cannothappen because the initial stretch of the elastic element is madesuiciently large so that it exerts a tension which endures adequatelythroughout the life of the collar. Of course, to maintain this tensionthe collar structure must be sufliciently resistant to compression wherethe tension is applied so as not to shorten materially under thesustained action of this tension when the collar is repeatedly washed.

This compression-resistance can be obtained in various ways. In thefirst place, when the elastic element is applied to a plurality ofcollar fabrics which are relatively stiff or at least form a relativelystifl fabric structure when sewn ,together by one or more rows ofstitches, these assembled fabric elements of the collar may themselvesprovide the compression-resisting element, provided that the tension ofthe elastic element is not too large. In fused collars, if the elasticelement is sewn to a group of plies which are subsequently stiffened bythe fusing operation, these plies denitely can provide thecompressionresisting element to sustain practical usable tensions due tothe stretched elastic element. But when the bi-elastic structure isapplied to a soft collar then, at least in many instances, it ispreferable to use a separate stiffened fabric or fabric structure as thecompression-resisting element. When the bi-elastic structure is appliedto fused collars then in this case at least there is a compensatoryaction which takes place on repeated launderings, viz., the collar tendsto get softer,

thereby creating a greater tendency to curl inl ward, but at the sametime if the elastic element is made of a properly selected rubber itstension will tend to decrease so that a substantially uniformanti-curling tendency is produced throughout the life of the collar.

Again referring to fused collars, in which the fused fabric issufficiently stiff to provide the necessary compression-resistance, itmay still be desirable to use a pre-fabricated bi-elastic elementcomprising a stiffened fabric and a stretched elastic element. In thefirst place it is preferable to incorporate the `bi-elastic elementinside the collar, rather than externally, hence the bi-elastic elementis best applied to the collar before fusing. If the stretched elasticelement alone is sewn directly to the plies of the collar in the courseof fabrication of the collar, that is, before the final fusingoperation,

the fabric will not be stiiened at the stage -When the stretched elasticelement is sewn thereto and hence the application to the collar of thestretched elastic element at this stage may readily cause undesirabledistortions. In the second place, bi-elastic elements, in strip form atleast, can be readily pre-fabricated and are simpler to attach to thecollar at the proper stage of manufacture than an elastic member whichhas to be stretched in the process of sewing to the collar. Thus, apre-fabricated bi-elastic element is preferable both from the standpointof avoiding distortions and also from the standpoint of ease ofmanufacture. It is to be noted, however, that where the bi-elasticstructure is applied to a, soft collar the compression-resisting elementshould be permanently stiifened so as to be permanentlycompression-resistant whereas in a fused collar thecompression-resisting element of the prefabricated bi-elastic structuremay be either permanently or temporarily resistant to compression, sincethe plies of such collars when ultimately fused can provide in mostcases adequate resistance to compression.

A preferred form of bi-elastic elements is in the form of strips and apreferred location for these strips is in the seamed edges of the collarbetween the actual edges of the collar and the so-called top stitching,as will be described. It will be understood, however, that suchbi-elastc elements can be used in other locations, e. g. as a diagonalstrip which more or less bi-sects the angle at the point of the collar.

Such bi-elastic strips may take a variety of forms and may be preparedin a variety of ways.

A clearer understanding of the inventionwill be obtained by reference tothe accompanying drawings which, it will be understood, are intended tobe purely diagrammatic and are not intended to provide any quantitativeinformation.

In these drawings: I

Fig. l is an isometric view of a portion of abielastic strip instraightened condition;

Fig. 2 is a cross-section on the line II-II of i 1; F ig. 3 is across-section through the elastic element of Fig. 2, before it isstretched;

Fig. 4 is a side view showing the curled form taken by the bi-elasticstrip when relaxed;

Fig. 5 is a plan View of a conventional lcollar attached to a shirt;

Fig. 6 is a cross-section on the line VI-VI of Fig. 5;

Fig. 7 is a plan view of an end of the collar indicating the location ofthe bi-elastic strips 1n the edges thereof;

Fig. 8 is a cross-section through a collar after the stage ofmanufacture known as runnmg but before turning and indicates how thebielastic strip may be sewn to the edge which 1s subsequently turnedinward;

Fig. 9 is a cross-section corresponding to Figx showing how thebi-elastic strip appears 1n position after the collar is turned;

Fig. 10 is a cross-section along line IST-I0 of Figure 7, correspondingto Fig. 9 but applies to a fused collar after it is fused;

Figs. 11 and l2 are longitudinal cross-sections corresponding to 2 butshowing a modification thereof Fig. 13 is an isometric view of st1llanother modification;

Fig. 14 shows the elastic member of Fig. 13 before stretching;

Fig. 15 is a longitudinal cross-section through a bi-elastic elementhaving a relatively stiff permanently stiifened compression-resistingmember; and

Fig 16 shows the elastic element of Fig. 15 before it is stretched.

Fig. 17 is a cross-section corresponding to Figure 10 of still anothermodification.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is an isometric view of a bi-elasticelement 3l comprising a stiifened fabric 33 which serves as thecompression-resisting element, a stretched elastic element 3d andstitches 35 holding the two elements together. Two rows of stitches 35are shown. This is preferable for most purposes. One row allows theelastic element to curl around the row of stitches and more than tworows of stitches are generally unnecessary so far as bielastic stripsare concerned.

Figure 2 is a cross-section on the line II-lI of Figure 1 showing howthe compression-resisting element 33 is sewn to the stretched elasticelement 34.

Figure 3 shows the elastic element 34 of Figure 2 before it is stretchedand indicates the extent to which the elastic element is stretched whenit is sewn to the compression-resisting element 33.

The bi-elastic structure 3i of Figures 1 and 2 is shown in thestraightened form. Actually when such strips are left to themselves, i.e. relaxed, they take a curve or spiral form such as indicated in Figure4. The degree of curvature assumed by such bi-elastic strips 3l dependson the stiffness of the compression-resisting element 33 and the amountof tension exerted by the stretched elastic element 34.

Figure 5 is a plan view of a conventional collar having a collar top 28,a collarband 2| which is sewn to the shirt 22 along the lower edgethereof. The collar top 2U is generally made by first superimposingthree plies of fabric, to wit, a face ply 24, a lining ply 25 and a backply 25. These three plies are sewn together by the so-called runningstitch indicated by 2l in Fig. 8. After the collar is seamed along itsedges by the stitch 21 (except the collarbanding edge) the assembly isturned inside out to the form indicated in Figure 6 so as to bring theface ply 24 uppermost, the back ply 26 lowermost and the lining ply 25in between. It will be understood that Figure 6 refers to the mostpopular type of conventional collar currently produced. After the collarplies are turned to bring them into the form of Figure 6 the so-calledtop stitch is applied which is indicated by the reference character 23in Figures 5 and 6.

Figure 7 is a plan view corresponding to Figure 5 showing one end of thecollar top of Figure 5 with the bi-elastic elements 3l in preferredlocation indicated by dotted lines. 32 indicates the stitch used to holdthe bi-elastic elements 3i in position. The approximate relativelocation of the shoulder seam of the shirt is indicated by 50.

Figure 8 shows how the bi-elastic element 3l may be sewn to the collarassembly by the stitch 32 after running but before turning. The regionindicated by 28 between the running stitch 2l and the edge of the collaris the part of the collar material which is subsequently turned inward.It is to this region 28 that I prefer to attach the bi-elastic strip 3|.

As mentioned above, it is preferable to use s.f n'letirnesy two rows ofstitches, and therefore reference character 32 is intended to indicateone or more such rows.

Figure 9 indicates the position taken by the bielastic strip 3| in thecollar after the same has been turned inside out to the form shown inFigure 6. If the collar is a fused collar then after fusing thecross-section of the collar will look substantially as indicated inFigure 10.

It will be understood that the stretched elastic element of thebi-elastic structure must be in proper location in order to effect thecurling tendency in the desired direction. In a colla:` the elasticelement must lie in a plane which is closer to the wearer than theneutral plane of the entire collar structure in the region where theelastic element is applied.

The bi-elastic element may take a variety of forms and be prepared in avariety of ways other than those indicated in Figure 2. For instance, Imay use a bias or braided tape of the type shown in Figure l1 which isstretchable and fasten to it either by a stitch or cementing a strip ofrubber 3l', both being shown in this figure in relaxed or unstretchedcondition. After this, I may stretch the assembly the desired amount asshown in Figure 12 and then maintain it in stretched condition byappliyng a temporary stiffening layer or layers as indicated at 35.

Figures 11 and 12 are in such relationship as to indicate in a rough waythe amount of stretching before the application of the stiffening layers38.

For most purposes it is desirable to fasten the compression-resistingmember and the tensioncreating elastic member of the bi-elasticstructure together at a common interface more or less continuously allalong said interface. For some purposes, however, it is suiiicient toattach the elastic element to the compression-resisting element only atthe ends as indicated in the modiiication of Figures 13 and 14. In thesefigures, 39 indicates a stiffened fabric which has tongues punched atthe ends as indicated at 40. A rubber band shown at 4l in Figures 13 and14 is then stretched over these tongues to produce the compositebi-elastic structure of Figure 13.

Figure 14 indicates the length of the `rubber band before it is appliedto the compressionresisting element 39.

It has been mentioned above that depending on the field of applicationthe compression-resisting element may be either temporarily stiffened orpermanently stifened. For temporary stiiiening I may use one or morelayers of heavily starched fabric or fabric treated with an equivalentsubstance which is removable on washing, e. g. hydroxyethylcellulose ofmedium viscosity preferably mixed with a small percentage of urea. Thereare other substances which may conveniently be used for such temporarystiffening. For more permanent stiffening I may use strips of socalledfusing lining either singly or fused together. These linings are used inthe shirt industry for the manufacture of fused collars and comprise afabric which is coated with a relatively insoluble substance, e. g.cellulose acetate. Such fabrics, either singly or in multiple layers,are adequate for providing permanent resistance to compression forbi-elastic elements suitable for collars. Or, instead of using theso-called coated linings, I may use the so-called interwovenlinings inwhich cellulose acetate yarns are interwoven with cotton; suchinterwoven linings are generally used in the better grade of fusedcollars.

Figure 15 indicates a sandwich made of a layer of fabric 43, a fusinglining 44, and another layer of fabric 42, all of which are fusedtogether by methods well known in the shirt trade. The lining 44 may beeither coated or interwoven. Attached to this composite structure is thestretched elastic element 46.

Figure 16 shows the elastic element 46 before stretching.

As mentioned above, under certain circumstances, particularly where theplies of fabric to which the elastic strip is attached, taken together,have sufficient resistance to compres,- sion--the bi-elastic structurerequires noadditional compression-resisting material. In such case theelastic member, e. g. a thin strip of suitable rubber, may be sewn tothe collar assembly by means of the running stitch itself, providedproper attention is paid to stretching the elastic member to the rightextent in the act of sewing it in place. Figure 17 is a crosssectionshowing an elastic element 48 held in place by the running stitch 21 andfolded back on itself like an ordinary ply of fabric when the collar isturned. i

As another modification it may be mentioned that a bi-elastic strip maybe prepared by taking a strip of rubber, stretching it to the requiredamount and then, while the rubber is in stretched condition, depositingon one face thereof a layer of viscous material such as a resin orcellulose acetate, and then maintaining the rubber in the stretchedcondition until the substance then deposited dries into a permanentlycompression-resisting film. Furthermore, if desired, it is also possibleto coat the stretched rubber strip itself with a temporarilycompression-resisting film 'and to apply, e. g. by sewing, the thusstiffened stretched rubber strip to a collar, particularly to a collarthe plies of which are fused to each other after application of therubber strip.

It will be understood that in all figures the amount of stretch is notquantitatively indicated by the relative lengths in Figures 2 and 3 or1l and 12 or 13 and 14 or 15 and 16. But, to give a specific example, Ihave found that using socalled dental dam rubber, which is a highlyelastic sheet rubber material with a thickness of about 0.007 inch,strips approximately onequarter inch wide and stretched to approximately120 to 135% of their length, when sewn into the position indicated at 3|in Figure l0 provide a satisfactory anti-curling tendency withoutcausing too much tension.

The word "compression-resistant is used throughout this specificationand the following claims in the sense that the object in question willnot buckle or tend to shorten continuously under the compressive forceinduced by the strips of rubber one of which is properly stretchedbefore cementing or otherwise applying it to the other. The other stripof rubber, which acts as the compression-resistant element, shouldpreferably be thicker tha-n the stretched elastic member or it should bemade of a rubber of higher duron-ieter hardness, or both. It isunderstood that the term compression-resistant member is intended tocover also substances of the sort which, after having once beeninitially compressed by the initial tension of the stretched elasticmember, will not subsequently tend to shorten to any material extent,and will not, moreover, tend to buckle.

The invention described above is partially disclosed in my U. S. patentapplications Serial No. 199,3`I7, led December 5, 1950, Serial No. 217,-341, led March 24, 1951, and Serial No. 247,910, iled September 24,1951.

What I claim is:

In a collar consisting of one or more fabric plies, means for opposingthe tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body of the wearer,said means comprising a flexible permanently compression-resistantelement located in the neighborhood of said collar point insubstantially iixed relation to said collar point; and an elasticstrip-shaped element incorporated in said collar' in permanentlystretched tension-creating condition and secured in such condition tosaid flexible permanently compression-resistant element in theneighborhood of said collar point extending at least approximatelytoward the same and located between said flexible permanentlycompression-resistant element and the inner collar face.

2'. In a collar consisting,T oi one or more fabric plies, means foropposing the tendency ci a collar point to curl away rom the body of thewearer, said means comprising a flexible permanentlycompression-resistant element located in the neighborhood of said collarpoint in substantially iixed relation to said collar point; and anelastic strip-shaped element incorporated in said collar along the longexternal edge thereof in permanently stretched tension-creatingcondition and secured in such condition to said flexible permanentlycompression-resistant element in the neighborhood of s-aid collar pointextending towardthevsame and located between said exible permanentlycompression-resistant element and y the inner collar face.

3. In a collar consisting of one or more fabric plies, means foropposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body ofthe wearer, said means comprising a llexible compressionresistantelement located in the neighborhood of each collar point insubstantially fixed relation to said collar point; and two elasticstrip-shaped elements symmetrically incorporated in said collar inpermanently stretched tension-creating condition, each of said elasticstrip-shaped elements being secured in such condition to the flexiblepermanently compression-resistant element in the neighborhood of therespective collar point extending at least approximately toward the sameand located between said flexible permanently compression resistantelement and the inner collar face. C

4. In a collar consisting of one or more fabric plies, means foropposing the tendency of a collar nently stretched tension-creatingcondition in said collar along the front edges thereof, respectively,each of said elastic strip-shaped elements being secured in suchcondition to the flexible permanently compression-resistant element inthe neighborhood of the respective collar point extending toward thesame and located between said flexible permanently compressionresistantelement and the inner collar face.

5. In a collar consisting oi` one or more fabric plies,` means foropposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body ofthe wearer, said means comprising a flexible compressionresistantelement located in the neighborhood of each collar point insubstantially xed relation to said collar point; and two elastomerstrips symmetrically incorporated in said collar in permanentlystretched tension-creating condition, each of said elastomer stripsbeing secured in such condition to the flexible permanentlycompression-resistant element in the neighborhood of the respectivecollar point extending at least approximately toward the same andlocated between said flexible permanently compressionresistant elementand the inner collar face.

6. In a collar consisting of several collar plies sewn to each otheralong the edges of the collar so as to form along said edges inwardlyturned stiffening seam portions, means for opposing the tendency of acollar point to curl away from the body of the wearer, said meanscomprising a flexible permanently compression-resistant strip-shapedelement incorporated in said collar along the front edge thereof andbetween the stiiening seam portion along said front edge and the innercollar ply in substantially fixed ref lation to said collar point; andan elastic stripshaped element incorporated in permanently stretchedtension-creating condition in said collar along said front edge thereofand secured in such condition to said permanently compressionresistantstrip-shaped element located between the same and the inner collar ply.

7. In a collar including an outer collar ply, an inner collar ply and aninterposed lining ply, means for opposing the tendency or a collar pointto curl away from the body of the wearer, said means comprising ailexible permanently compression-resistant element incorporated in saidcollar located in the neighborhood of said collar point between saidlining ply and said inner ply of said collar in substantially xedrelation to said collar point; and an elastic strip-shaped elementincorporated in said collar in permanently stretched tension-creatingcondition and secured in such condition to said flexible permanentlycompression-resistant element in the neighborhood of said collar pointextending at least approximately toward the same and located betweensaid compression-resistant element and the inner collar ply.

8. In a collar including an outer and an inner collar ply, means foropposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body ofthe wearer, said means comprising a flexible permanentlycompression-resistant element incorporated in said collar locatedbetween said collar plies in the neighborhood of said collar point insubstantially ixed relation to said collar point; and an elasticstrip-shaped element incorporated in said collar in permanentlystretched tension-creating condition and secured in such condition tosaid ilexible permanently compression-resistant element in theneighborhood of said collar point extending at least approximatelytoward the same and located between said compression-resistant elementand the inner collar ply.

9. In a collar consisting of several collar plies sewn to each otheralong the edges of the collar so as to form along said edges inwardlyturned stiffening seam portions, means for opposing the tendency of acollar point to curl away from the body of the wearer, said means beingincorporated in said collar and including an elastic strip-shapedelement secured in permanently stretched tension-creating condition toan inwardly turned stiiening seam portion in the neighborhood of saidcollar point extending toward the same and located between said inwardlyturned seam portion and the inner collar ply.

10. In a collar having two collar points and consisting of severalfabric plies, in combination, means forming a pair of elongated narrowpockets extending along the front edges of said collar between saidfabric plies; and means for opposing` the curling tendency of a collarpoint located in each of said elongated narrow pockets, each of saidmeans `composed of a flexible permanently compression-resistantstrip-shaped element and of an elastic strip-shaped element secured inpermanently stretched tension-creating condition to said flexiblepermanently -compression-resistant element, .and arranged in said pocketextending in direction of the same and with said flexiblecompression-resistant strip-shaped element facing the outer collar faceand said elastic stripshaped element facing the inner collar face.

l1. In a collar having two collar points and consisting of severalfabric plies, in combination, a pair of spaced parallel seams extendingalong each of the front edges of said collar and forming a pair ofelongated narrow pockets extending along said front edges of said collarbetween said fabric plies; and means for opposing the curling tendencyof a collar point located in each of said elongated narrow pockets, eachof said means composed of `a flexible permanently compressionresistantstrip-shaped element and of an elastic strip-shaped element secured inpermanently stretched tension-creating condition to said nexiblepermanently compression-resistant element, and arranged in said pocketextending in direction of the same and with said flexiblecompression-resistant strip-shaped element facing the 10 outer collarface and said elastic strip-shaped element facing the inner collar face.

12. In a collar having two collar points and consisting of severalfabric plies. in combination, means forming .a pair of elongated narrowpockets located in the neighborhood of each collar point extendingtoward the same; and means for opposing the curling tendency of a collarpoint located in each of said elongated narrow pockets, each of saidmeans composed of a flexible permanently compression-resistant shapedelement and of an elastic strip-shaped element secured in permanentlystretched tension-creating condition to said flexible permanentlycompression-resista ant element, and arranged in said pocket extendingin direction of the same and with said flexible compression-resistantstrip-shaped element facing the outer collar face and said elasticstripshaped element facing the inner collar face.

13. In a collar having two collar points and consisting of severalfabric plies, in combination, means forming a pair of elongated narrowpockets located in the neighborhood of each collar point extendingtoward the same; and means for opposing the curling tendency of a collarpoint located in each of said elongated narrow pockets, each of saidmeans composed of a flexible stiifened permanently compression-resistantfabric strip and an elastomer strip secured in permanently stretchedtension-creating condition to said flexible stiffened permanentlycompression-resistant element, and arranged in said pocket extending indirection of the same and with said flexible stiienedcompression-resistant fabric strip facing the outer collar face and saidelastomer strip facing the inner collar face.

BENJAMIN LIEBOWITZ.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 328,207 Fulmer Oct. 13', 18851,939,214 King Dec. 12, 1933 2,183,242 Liebowitz Dec. 12, 1939 2,186,356Bihaly Jan. 9, 1940 2,502,772 Winstead Apr. 4, 1950

